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Whenever assembling a roll of London’s top restaurants, one might foresee familiar award-winning establishments. But, situated prominently among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a distant area of north London.

A Unexpected Recognition

This small Turkish spot, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a influential food magazine. The honour has made the family utterly shocked.

“I’m utterly surprised,” says the proprietor, alluding to his family’s dedication that culminated in their modest restaurant earning such a lofty position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

The little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing food hotspot, has kept much of its earlier feel. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking show, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” comments the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the fare, and this eatery more than succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. As the flavourful mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the savoury meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in less syrup than usual, imparting it a deeper, nuttier and more balanced taste.

Rising Above the Stars

Notably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, equivalent tasting menus at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

A Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is most important is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to reveal what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Dedication

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at fancy restaurants. “I am really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a life outside work but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to resonate outside its own premises. “I believe numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader significance of this gastronomic honour.